How To Install Microwave Vent Duct
Dan is a licensed electrician and has been a homeowner for xl years. He has nearly always washed his own repair and improvement tasks.
How to install a microwave over your stove or oven range
JOSBRA design via Unsplash
Do You Desire to Put a Microwave Over the Stove?
Most of the time, installing an over-the-range microwave oven is not hard, but each firm is unlike, and bug can exist encountered. This article is designed to cover some of the potential problems that may be constitute likewise equally requite bones instructions on how to install an over-the-range microwave oven.
The descriptions and photos are from the third over-the-range microwave oven I've installed in recent months, with the work existence done this fourth dimension in an older home. Older homes oftentimes present the most issues, from electric to cabinetry, and some of those issues and the solutions to them are presented here.
Even with the problems encountered, the task of installing the over-the-range microwave was non difficult and took about ii hours to reach. All three of the units I've installed came with skilful descriptive instructions, and all 3 were very similar in installation procedures. The piece of work is well within the capabilities of nearly homeowners.
Step-past-Step Over-the-Stove Microwave Installation Guide
- Make sure you have enough infinite. Microwaves are usually 30" broad, and you'll need at least 15" clearance from the bottom of the microwave to the range.
- Remove the old fan, assuming there was one. Turn off the power before you do any electric work.
- Determine what electric work you might need to practice. (Is there a plug? See instructions below.) Over again, make sure the power is off earlier you do whatsoever electrical work.
- Install a support or shelf for the microwave.
- Install the microwave.
- Accommodate the blower motor.
Read on for detailed instructions and tips for each of these steps.
Problems You May Encounter: Incomplete or Missing Electrical Connections
The task began with the removal of the sometime range fan unit of measurement, mounted in the identify the over-the-range microwave oven was to occupy. The home I worked in is most 40 years old, and construction methods were somewhat unlike and then.
Although the normal 30" wide microwave fit easily into the space provided by the range and cabinetry and the necessary 15" clearance from the bottom of the microwave to the range was more than adequate it didn't take long to detect that there was no reasonable power source for installing the new microwave oven.
The old house had the range fan hardwired without a plug-in for the microwave, and while it is possible to wire the new microwave during the installation process, it is not the optimal solution. In such cases, the ability for the range fan simply pokes through the wall behind the fan, is run into the fan and hooked up. A new receptacle is needed in the cabinet higher up.
Turn the power off earlier continuing any further! The best method to make sure the power is off is to use a non-contact voltage detector, but the fan calorie-free could be turned on and the breakers turned off until the low-cal goes off. Whatever method is used, brand sure the power is off before disconnecting the fan.
The surface area where the power cable comes through the wall will be hidden by the microwave, and then even adequately big holes in the wall won't be of any item concern. I institute that the hole where the wire came through the wall was quite big, peradventure 2" X four"—plenty big enough to work through, and the wire was easily long plenty to run college, inside the wall, and go out through the back of the cabinet just above. It only needed to go up a few inches, and in that location was plenty of wire to do that.
A new hole was cut through the back of the cabinet just large plenty for an "old work" electrical box, and the wire easily fished into that pigsty. Earlier cutting the hole, the general area where the plug was to go was investigated from the original hole below, and I found that there were two other wires in the expanse.
The program had been to cut the pigsty through the cabinet and sheetrock wall behind information technology with a sabre saw, but that would probably cutting the wires buried in the wall, so a sheetrock saw was very advisedly used to cutting the pigsty. A piffling more work, but information technology prevented dissentious the wires behind the wall.
If you are non familiar with the installation or wiring of outlets, instructions are available in the link here; exist sure to read and understand them. In particular, make sure the power is turned off before any piece of work is done.
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With the new plug-in installed and the fan removed, the work of actually installing the over-the-range microwave was ready to continue.
Installing the Microwave Supports
Installing the Microwave
The outset footstep in installing the new microwave is to attach the mounting subclass to the wall. The exact middle of the area is measured (in my instance 15 1/sixteen" from each side) and a line drawn down the wall. The bracket is centered on the line and fastened to the wall.
Attachment is accomplished by either using toggle bolts or forest screws. The instructions indicated that at least one woods screw is to be used, so the studs must be located for that spiral, as well as any others that might be used.
In the case hither, the studs were visible through either the exhaust vent hole or the smaller pigsty where the wire originally came through the wall, only in almost cases, a stud finder from your homeowner's toolset is very useful.
In my case, there were wooden blocks installed on the underside of the cabinet to support the fan, and these blocks extended from the front to the back under the chiffonier. The blocks resulted in the subclass being installed but barely too loftier and information technology had to shifted only slightly down past loosening the screws and pushing down.
The instructions indicate that the bracket should bear on the bottom of the cabinet; I suggest that it be installed perchance 1/16" or 1/32" lower down. It will make installation of the microwave easier if this bracket is simply below the cabinet instead of touching information technology.
Holes need to be drilled through the wall for the toggle bolts; 5/8" is the perfect size for about toggle bolts, and a spade bit makes quick work of the sheetrock. The stud(s) to receive wood screws should also be predrilled as the large screws may split the wood and are difficult to bulldoze without predrilling the 1/sixteen" hole recommended.
In my case, I found an additional stud that could be used and so used three toggle bolts and 2 wood screws instead of the iii toggle bolts and 1 wood screw. It doesn't touch the installation of the oven and provides a more secure back up.
The chiffonier lesser needs preparing as well; holes must be drilled in exact locations for screws to pass through and screw into the microwave. A paper template is provided to locate these holes; tape it to the bottom of the chiffonier and drill where indicated.
Holes that are 3/viii" in diameter are the preferred size for the screws, while a one 3/8" spade chip provided the hole necessary for the electric cord to laissez passer through that was just right for that cord end. The instructions indicated a 2" pigsty for the cord, but that is overly large; the smaller 1 3/8" hole was perfect.
The sides of the cabinet by and large project downwardly past the bottom of the chiffonier, and in this case, a wooden cake needs to be made and so that when it is placed under the cabinet, it is the same elevation as the sides are. The installed microwave will bear upon the bottom at the lowest point (i.east., the protruding cabinet sides), and the screws volition deform the superlative of the microwave as they are tightened if there is no surface to terminate the sail metallic of the microwave from being drawn up.
Drill the same 3/viii" hole in the blocks and then the spiral will pass through the bottom of the cabinet and the block into the microwave. In my own case, the cake needed to be 1 i/4" thick; a typical ¾" pieced of forest coupled with a piece of ½" plywood would accept been perfect, but blocks were already in identify to support the now removed fan.
Unfortunately, the holes in the bottom of the chiffonier and the blocks were virtually, only not quite, in the correct spot. An additional 1/2 hole needed to be drilled; this was washed by working the drill scrap upwardly and downwardly with side pressure practical until the holes were in the correct identify but elongated. The spiral head nearly fell through the elongated hole, which is, of grade, unacceptable.
I chose to use some large "fender" washers on top to embrace the hole; these washers are over an inch beyond with only a 1/4" hole for the spiral to go through and thus covered the overly large pigsty in the cabinet lesser and spread the weight out. Alternatively, a new false bottom could be placed in the chiffonier, made from hardboard.
Adjusting the Blower Motor
How to Arrange the Blower
As it came from the manufactory, the exhaust blower in the microwave was installed to recirculate air back into the room. The duct work to exhaust it exterior was already in the wall, and then information technology only fabricated sense to use that duct, which the microwave is designed to do with a footling modification.
The photo shows how the frazzle area in the microwave is closed off from the factory; the blower assembly is removed from the microwave, turned to the orientation shown in the second photograph and reinstalled. Information technology sounds much more than complicated than it is; the entire process took less than five minutes and was very easy.
The duct in the old house was not in real good condition and was considerably larger than the exhaust from the microwave, so foam insulation of the type used around doors or windows with a sticky side was used on the wall to seal the area.
In this manner, the back of the microwave is sealed against the wall except for the ducting, and air must get up the duct instead of effectually small cracks behind the installed microwave and back into the room.
This can be seen in the photo above that as well shows the bolts passing through the cabinet bottom. It is the grey surface area around the duct. The insulation on paw was wide simply quite sparse at virtually ¼" thick, so two layers were used.
Installed over the counter microwave
How to Install the Microwave
- The actual installation of the microwave is quite simple: the lesser rear of the microwave is set onto the pocket-size hooks on the rear subclass screwed to the wall, the plug and cord fed up inside the cabinet, and the unit tipped upwards into place.
- The long screws demand to be placed through the holes in the lesser of the chiffonier and screwed into the microwave and the cord plugged in. My unit had iii screws into the top of the microwave, with a note that the center one is not to be tightened too much.
- In my case, the grease screens needed to be installed into the lesser of the microwave and the glass turntable set into place. The articulate plastic motion picture over the keypad needed to exist removed, and voila!—the unit of measurement is ready for supper.
Tools Needed
Most of the tools I used are mutual effectually the house, although I did utilize an impact commuter for driving the wood screws. A cordless drill will work near likewise, and even a screwdriver would do the task with a good deal of effort (the screws provided are quite large).
Is Information technology Easy to Install a Microwave Over a Range? How Hard Is Information technology?
Probably the biggest obstacle for most homeowners will exist a lack of confidence, but you lot tin acquire to do most home repairs yourself. All it takes is a little time and a few of the correct tools.
My own feel in installing this detail over-the-range microwave would tend to bespeak that they can be installed in virtually any home. At absolute worst I would expect a new power line to accept to be pulled from the circuit panel or nearby plug, and new ducting installed if there is none and the owner insists on an outside duct.
On a scale of 1–10, this chore rates about a 3. My full time, including mounting the new plug, cleaning up afterwards, and taking photos was about two hours.
This commodity is accurate and truthful to the best of the writer's knowledge. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes just and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business concern, financial, legal, or technical matters.
Questions & Answers
Question: If in that location is no wall behind the stove, are in that location brackets to adhere to the cabinets to install an over-the-range microwave?
Answer: None that I have seen. Nor is the microwave capable of beingness hung at that place - it is designed for most of the weight to be on the wall. Most cabinets would not hold information technology anyway.
Question: What if the existing vent to the outside and the new microwaves vent do not lucifer up? There is an inch between the summit of the microwave and the bottom of the cupboard.
Answer: Almost microwaves must be bolted to that upper chiffonier, which means you lot will have to put in a pocket-size spacer betwixt the chiffonier and the microwave. The vent must and then be extended down to the microwave with some sheet metal; with only an inch or so to get, I would suggest purchasing some roof flashing and cutting and angle information technology to fit.
Question: Does the microwave need its ain circuit?
Answer: A microwave should, ideally, have it's ain circuit. It is not admittedly necessary, but yous should be prepared to lookout and not overload the circuit. A microwave, an electric skillet and a coffeepot, for instance, will likely pop the billow.
Question: Our existing hood fan does not vent to the outside. So I need ductwork to the exterior for a proper install?
Answer: Only if you want to vent the range fumes and steam outside. Most if not all microwaves come up with the ability to either vent outside through a duct or to filter it and accident back within.
Question: Are there microwaves that install on the wall only?
Answer: As far equally I know, no. While information technology would exist possible to design such a organisation it would certainly require boosted wall strength; sheetrock solitary would never hold a microwave oven and information technology'southward contents.
Question: Do you have to install an outlet or can you hardwire a microwave to the wall? I can't seem to detect the answer in the codes.
Answer: I would say that would come down to your local laws and inspector. Not all kitchen equipment has an outlet - most dishwashers are hardwired, for example, as are range fans. Simply if the wire is there, information technology isn't hard to install an outlet, even but on inside the upper cabinet. I would certainly do it unless there is a very practiced reason non to.
Question: Are near cabinets sturdy enough for a Hood microwave?
Answer: Yeah. Because how much can be put in a cabinet, and how much is typically put into cabinets loftier over a range, at that place should never be a problem.
Plus, of course, the wall is carrying a good deal of the weight. Tipping one into place and screwing it to the cabinet takes some effort, but a lot of the reason is bulkiness and clumsiness. The bodily weight of the cabinet is not dandy.
Question: Is the existing electric the correct voltage for the microwave? Are typical exhaust fans less?
Reply: The typical voltage for both is the 110 Volts found throughout the house.
Question: Could you explain how these instructions for installing and over-the-range microwave work? I'm certain that the excursion amperage used for the vent hood you replaced tin't power the microwave. The microwave needs to be on 20amp excursion. Almost hoods were on less and tied into other kitchen circuits, like ceiling lights. Exercise your breakers pop?
Answer: You are correct in that a microwave needs a large excursion, such as the 20 amp circuits that the electrical code requires for kitchen outlets. And yous are too right that mine was tied into just such an outlet. Most range fans will be wired that way; the only other options are to tie information technology into another excursion or run a dedicated circuit but for the fan.
In my case, the microwave, toaster, coffee pot and electrical griddle all ended upward on the same circuit - mine is an older home without a lot of circuits. Running three of those at the aforementioned fourth dimension does pop the breaker, but any two, including the microwave, is fine, and that would be pretty typical.
Question: What is the required acme from stovetop to bottom of the microwave?
Reply: The microwave should be no less than 13" above the range. In add-on, it should exist no more than than 54" above the floor - whatsoever less and it can exist difficult for shorter people to use.
Question: We are installing the same make of over-the-range microwave. However, we can't get information technology level front to back. Why?
Answer: I would suspect that the manufacturer inverse the specs slightly on the exact placement of the supports on the microwave. Or that some spacers under the chiffonier have fallen off unnoticed.
Either manner, the likely solution is to add a small spacer under the cabinet if the microwave is tipped upwardly in the front. If it is already besides loftier the bracket on the wall will have to be moved.
© 2022 Dan Harmon
Dan Harmon (writer) from Boise, Idaho on December 17, 2022:
It shouldn't - information technology is fabricated to be installed in that position. A bigger issue will be adding more holes in the wall behind and the cabinet above - somewhen, with multiple installs, these areas could lose the strength necessary to support the microwave. That'southward unlikely with only ii installs, though.
Tina on December 17, 2022:
We are going to supervene upon our over the stove microwave convection unit of measurement. Th microwave I picked out is deeper than the present one past a couple of inches. Will this create any bug with the cooktop?
Dan Harmon (author) from Boise, Idaho on Jan 20, 2022:
Connie: You have two bug here. You are wanting to movement the microwave only 1/4", to a 3" gap on both sides. It may be possible to slide it on the backing, but information technology may not, either, and require that the backing be moved that one/iv". It is unlikely that putting lag bolts (or large screws) only i/four" from existing holes will give plenty support, even bold it wasn't put where it was in order to accept studs to put the screws into.
But beyond that, yous will accept to enlarge the screw holes in the cabinet above. If there are blocks used to support the microwave, they can exist moved and the existing holes re-used, but it volition require a larger hole in the chiffonier itself. If at that place are no blocks used to distribute the weight in the cabinet yous will take to supply some.
Hope that helps.
Connie Clawson on Jan 20, 2022:
My lg microwave was not centered correctly in a 36 nice space above my 30 inch stovetop causing a gap of two 3/4 inch on 1 side and 3 1/4 gap on the other side. Was supposed to have a 3 inch chiffonier filler on both sides. Can the microwave be slid over a little to accommodate this or volition it accept to exist removed and reinstalled. And what almost the toggle bolts.
Dan Harmon (writer) from Boise, Idaho on April 28, 2022:
Interesting question. It must fasten backside and above, and to textile potent enough to hold it upwards. Ane must be able to get within any "bulkhead" above and provide strong supports, although the wall behind needs only something along the lines of sheetrock. Given those requirements tin be met, though, it shouldn't be likewise difficult - at worst open the construction above or construct something, and then cover the opening after adding structural support.
P Donohue on April 28, 2022:
Any ideas on how to install oven top microwave if there isn't a cabinet merely bulkhead instead?
Dan Harmon (writer) from Boise, Idaho on Apr 27, 2022:
I have seen any that shallow. Amazon lists several at or just over fifteen" deep, but that's about it. I suspect it will be very difficult to find (or incommunicable) considering that will sit it quite a ways back from the forepart of the range and brand it hard to load and empty.
thiele on April 27, 2022:
I accept a questions/ any idea where I can get an over the stove microwave that is only 14" deep, thanks
Dan Harmon (author) from Boise, Idaho on January 06, 2022:
Coincidentally, I very recently did simply that. The last microwave I installed lasted just one year and 5 days. 5 days past the warranty period.
A new ane was purchased, of a different brand, and installed. The brackets were radically different - at that place was no chance that the old subclass would fit the new microwave.
Even if I had purchased the same manufacturer, I doubt that the bracket would accept fit. The aforementioned model - perchance, merely even that is in dubiety.
Plan on removing and replacing that old subclass. If yous don't have to, well and expert, simply you should be prepared to exercise and then.
amkjud on January 06, 2022:
if i am replacing an older microwave, will the hanging bracket exist the same or will i demand to replace information technology?
Dan Harmon (writer) from Boise, Idaho on September 23, 2022:
Thanks for the vote of confidence; I try to requite instructions for someone that has never washed the task before.
saleheensblog from Dhaka,Bangladesh on November 10, 2022:
useful info, voted up
Source: https://dengarden.com/appliances/how-to-install-installing-an-over-the-range-microwave
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